Catwalk Foundation - Dewy vs Matte

In our first make-up lesson with Fenella we had to apply a flawless foundation base ready for the catwalk. We had to first prep the skin on our model and create a dewy, glowing foundation base and then a matte foundation base. The aim was to create healthy looking skin with both a dewy and matte finish.

Tip: If you have time use a face mask to freshen the skin up before the regular skin prep and base application to achieve the best base possible.

Fenella's tips from MyCourse:

 

Before - no make-up

Dewy

Products:

• Make-up brushes (Real Techniques, Crown Brush and Charles Fox)
• Garnier Micellar water
• Nivea Q10 day cream
• MAC Fix+
• MAC Strobe Cream
• Smashbox Photo Ready hydrating primer
• Collection 2000 Lasting Perfection Concealer
• Kryolan Ultra Foundation
• Dermacolor palette
• Kryolan Glamour Glow palette
• Illasmaqua translucent powder
• L'Occitane lip balm

Step-by-step:

1. My model wasn't wearing any make-up so I just removed any excess dirt with some micellar water on a cotton pad
2. I then applied a moisturising day cream with my hands and let it sink into her skin as she had a few dry patches due to the cold weather
3. After the moisturiser had sunk in I spritzed her face with Fix+ spray and let that sink in
4. I then applied a primer all over her face to prep it for the make-up
5. I took a concealer brush and the rose coloured shade from the dermacolor and applied under my models eyes to cancel out any dark circles
6. I then applied strobe cream all over her face with a foundation brush to create the perfect dewy, glowing base for the foundation
7. I applied the Ultra Foundation in the best matched shade all over her face starting in the center and buffing out towards the edges as I didn't want it to have a full on, caked effect, I wanted it to look like her skin still
8. I then took the collection 2000 concealer and applied under the eyes to conceal daker shadows beneath her eyes and also onto any blemishes still visible
9. To finish the look I used the glamour glow palette to lightly highlight and contour the face
10. I applied some lip balm to her lips with a regular lip brush

Before creating the fully matte base I decided to matte down this dewy base slightly and contour and highlight the face a bit more with the Glamour Glow palette to create a more wearable matte-glowy base. To do this I used the Illamasqua loose powder to take out the shine created using the strobe cream and Fix+, once the shiny finish was completely powdered out I took two small blusher brushes and used one of the light nude highlighting shades from the Glamour Glow and highlighted the tip of the nose, forehead, chin, brow bone and cheekbones. I then used another small blush brush and a darker Glamour Glow shade to sculpt the cheek bones, temples and jaw line. Here are the images from my dewy-matte base:

Matte:

Products:

• Make-up brushes (Real Techniques, Crown Brush and Charles Fox)
• Make-up wipes
• Garnier Micellar water
• Nivea Q10 day cream
• Smashbox Photo Ready hydrating primer
• Collection 2000 Lasting Perfection Concealer
• Rimmel Stay Matte foundation
• Dermacolor palette  
• Rimmel Stay Matte powder
• L'Occitane lip balm

 Step-by-step:

1. I removed all the make-up from the dewy look using make-up wipes and micellar water just as I wanted to use some different products for the matte base
2. As my models skin was irritated from having the make-up put on then taken off I applied some of the moisturising day cream I used for my dewy look to cool her skin down and to moisturise the dry patches
3. Once the moisturiser had set in I applied the Smashbox hydrating primer all over the prep for the foundation
4. Like the first time round I used the dermacolor rose shade to cancel out dark circles beneath her eyes
5. I took a foundation brush and applied some Stay Matte foundation to the middle of her face and then buffed it out towards the edges using a buffing brush. This is quite a heavy foundation with a mousse-like texture so not a lot of product is required
6. I then concealed under her eyes and over any blemishes with the Collection 2000 concealer and patted this on with my middle finger
7. When I was pleased with the base I took a large fluffy brush and set the base with the matching Stay Matte powder which really gives the skin a matte finish
8. I reapplied some of the lip balm as it had wiped off from the first look

Beauty & the Brand : The brief broken down

Portfolio 70%

•  6 Final Images
• Sketchblog (Blogger) minimum 30 posts
• Brand evaluation 500-750 words
•  Project evaluation 200-350 words
• Submission date: 25th April
• Feedback date: 16th May 

Brand:

We have to choose a brand as a basis for all our research, designs and as if we are working for the brand to create your final images following the brief (List of brands available to choose from on MyCourse). When we have picked our brand we have to conduct really thorough research in order to be able to design our looks for our shoots, plan our shoots and create our 6 strong images to submit. Things to look into when conducting our brand research:

• Products (Include hero products & best sellers)
• Packaging
• Presentation
• Promotion
• Price point
• History & Heritage
• Ethos
• Brand identity
• Type of models used/Beauty type/Style/Aesthetic
• Who are the customers?

Beauty:

Alongside our brand research we have to look into the beauty side of things too for inspiration for our designs. I will be looking into SS16 beauty/make-up trends as well as at all the fashion weeks to see what other designers were doing with the hair and make-up worn on their runways. As well as the make-up and hair showcased at the fashion weeks I will be looking at the colours, shapes and textures as this is something I will consider incorporating into/when designing my make-up looks 

The six images:

2 advertising photographs:

- 1 day/natural look image & 1 night/evening look image

- Pictures of the product

- Brand logo

- Text/quotes

2 editorial photographs:

- Mini spread

- Can be full length/mid short images (If full/mid length have to think about styling)

- What kind of magazine would it be in?

2 catwalk photographs:

- Runway images?

- Backstage of catwalk images? Could be one runway and one back stage?

- If backstage it needs to be head and shoulder shots

- More creative looks than for the editorial and advertising which will be more classic

Tips for shoots:

- Find a photographer to take your images so you have the most professional and polished outcome

- Use more than one model, maybe three. One for each category (e.g. one model for the advert images, another for the editorial and another for the catwalk.)

- Think carefully about what models you pick, why did you choose them? Do they suit your brand?

SUBMISSION DETAILS FOR YOUR PORTFOLIO:

• The 6 images, sketch blog, brand evaluation & project evaluation must be uploaded as ONE PDF file
• Make sure your sketchblog includes full and thorough research: visuals, experiments, ideas, inspiration, practises, technical file etc etc.
• Look at grading criteria

Timed assessment 30%

• 2 Hours long
• Hair and make-up to be completed
• The 2 hours includes set up, prep, creating the full look, photographing, tidying up.
• NOT continuity, only a one time assessment. 
• Must be ONE of your catwalk looks.
• The assessment will take place in Lotties lessons
• Front & side shot required, 2 images to submit
• No editing allowed, these must be the raw images as we are being tested on our technical ability alone 
• 1 moodboard for make-up, hair and styling
• 1 moodboard for the mood/theme/vibe of the look
• Face chart
• Hair chart
• Submission date: 18th March 
• This is a separate submission to the portfolio (Blog & 6 Images) 

 Other information: 

• Week 4-5 everyone will be doing presentations on their research so far, ideas etc.
• Make sure to incorporate 3 very important aspects: The brand, YOU, SS16 trends.